David Koma’s leather does things to me. It’s…dare I say…sexual? But it also feels natural and sharply tailored and done in silhouettes that feel traditional. It’s a new beginning for Koma, and this collection emphasized that in its pieces and also its venue: St. George’s Church, a spot for holy renewal.
Koma was creative director at Mugler until this past December, leaving the label after four years at the helm to focus on his namesake label. The collection was his fresh start, which began, as new beginnings sometimes do, by looking at the past. His pieces explored his roots in Russia and Georgia (where he was born), but also took a look at roots in a more general sense, with the photographs of Edward Curtis, nineteenth-century artist and ethnologist.
The collection was folkloric with ‘60s influences — and materials. Leather, sheepskin, and pony-skin were the dominant materials, and embellishments like macramé and feathers added natural elements. Koma is known for his tailored, bodycon designs, which showed in the geometric jumpsuits accented with playful buttons and sliced open hems that teased flashes of skin.
Each culture’s folklore belies a history that weaves our common story into a giant, many-layered tapestry. Koma’s collection beautifully illustrated a wardrobe version of that story.