Phew, we’re here! The final fashion week of the season. So far we’ve had protests at Dior and Cara Delevingne wearing some very interesting “ear art”. Sounds fun! Starting yesterday and going through March 6, there’s a lot of news and street style imagery and Instagram posts to get to the meat of who you want to pay attention to.
But fear not — we’ve got you covered.
The ‘60s “Youthquake” at Dior and ‘80s shoulders at Saint Laurent
Here’s what you missed yesterday: At Dior, protests, peace and love were the vibe. Can most protesters afford to wear Dior? Of course not, but we appreciate the sentiment nonetheless. Maria Grazia Chiuri looked to the ‘60s — particularly the student protests in Paris — and the feminist spirit of the era for inspiration. The venue was plastered with collaged images from magazines of the decade like Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue.
So what does Dior channeling ‘60s protesters look like? Lots of patchworked pieces, of course, in the form of patchworked knee-length coats, lace-collared dresses, and wide-leather belts. Patchwork is certainly the unifying theme of fashion this season!
Over at Saint Laurent hours later, we fast-forwarded 20 years to the ‘80s. Also channeled by Tom Ford in a big way, Saint Laurent played with the popular silhouettes of the decade. The thematic color of the show was black, and the standout pieces were strong-shouldered black velvet jackets paired with dolphin shorts and, switching to color, mini-dresses in multi-hued floral sequins.
Shut it down, Marine Serre’s won Paris Fashion Week
Marine Serre is a name you’ll soon be hearing a lot more of. Serre, who came up in the studios of Margiela, Balenciaga and Dior, has accomplished something that, while we’re seeing more and more of it, is still a hard feat to pull off. She’s combined a commitment to upcycling with exquisite design.
As The New York Times wrote, “…as in the pièce de résistance, show-closing dresses made of vintage scarves or shirts found, washed and then combined. She is not the only designer to make use of vintage textiles, but in her hands, and in her hybrid sportswear-and-scarf dresses, they looked cool.” Making things look cool is at least half the battle. Serre also spoke about a theme many designers are alluding to recently, the need for protection. Maybe it’s the current political climate affecting us, but many women are looking for a sort of stylish armor to shield us from the world.
Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s Sophomore Run at Chloé
Tomorrow morning will be Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s second show at Chloé after the departure of Hedi Slimane to Céline. Ramsay-Levi is moving her second show to a currently undisclosed location after last season’s contemporary art-filled Maison Chloé. The campaign she debuted in January for the label, in the form of a short film directed by Steven Meisel, retained the core of Chloé’s spirit — classic, soft-focus femininity paired with clean lines and rough materials, from leathers to snakeskin.
For the first time…
Demna Gvasalia will show both menswear and womenswear at his Balenciaga show on Sunday. The “world’s hottest designer,” spoke to The Guardian recently about what he thinks of the fashion world. “What is different about my point of view is pragmatism,” he said. “The fashion world isn’t the real world and my aesthetic is a kind of hyperrealism. I am not interested in trying to live in some kind of dream. I’d be bored to death.”