Your Guide To The Designers Nominated For The 2019 LVMH Prize


Since its conception in 2013, the LVMH Prize has become a career-making award for young designers. With a 300,000-euro award and a year of mentorship from industry experts, it’s helped launch the careers of designers like Marine Serre and Simon Porte Jacquemus. On Monday, the shortlist for 2019’s LVMH Prize was released, with 20 designers from 15 countries selected from a pool of 1,700 applicants.

 

A few cool things to note from this year’s nominees: There are five unisex collections, and two designers from AfricaKenneth Ize from Nigeria and Thebe Magugu from South Africaa continent often underrepresented in international fashion. London-based Richard Malone is the competition’s only returning finalist from last year.

 

From here, the list of designers will be narrowed down to eight finalists, one of whom will win the grand prize and the mentorship. Replacing the Special Prize for the first time is the Prize for Young Fashion Graduates, which will give three graduates a chance to win 100,000 euros and work at one of LVMH’s fashion houses.

 

Below, get to know this year’s contestants.

 

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*CALAVIÑAS*

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3.Paradis—Montreal-based brand 3.Paradis is a menswear label run by longtime friends Emeric Tchatchoua and Raymond Cheung. A favorite of rappers like Future and Swae Lee, the brand is inspired by hip-hop subcultures of the ’80s and ’90s.

 

 

Anrealage—Tokyo label Anrealage is the cerebral fashion label of the future; designer Kunihiko Morinaga is known for his unique blend of fashion-meets-technology with photochromic fabrics and hand-stitched geometric patterns.

 

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@williamsoames wears recycled plastic and dead stock yarn shirt and trousers, handwoven by @sanpatrignano Working in collaboration with Adelaide House, a women’s shelter based in Liverpool, one of only six such facilities in the country. Adelaide House provides a safe place for women leaving prison with various needs including domestic violence and homelessness. I have also worked alongside @giorgiachiarion , who has illustrated the women of Adelaide House and created abstract paintings inspired by Liverpool’s landscape. Liverpool was the first city in the UK to have social housing. The city forms inspiration for the collection, as well as the number of female, socially engaged politicians that have helped support their community. In an interesting twist on the ongoing discourse around gender, when a man buys a piece from this collection, the proceeds go to supporting some of society’s most vulnerable women. To support Adelaide House, I will be donating 20% of the profits from this collection. Creative Direction – Bethany Williams Art Direction – @giorgiachiarion , @crackstevens Stylist – @realtallulahharlech Set Design – @lydiaaachan Casting – @11casting Hair – Agi Davis using @toniandguyworld Make Up – Kristina Vidic using @Code8 Knitwear – Karen Kewley, Cecile Tulkins, Alice Morell Evans Footwear – @Adidas and @helenkirkumstudio Communication – @thelobbylondon London Production – @blonsteinproductions Music – @_benjib featuring the voices of to the women from London College of Fashion, UAL’s ‘Making for Change’ programme Shownotes – @fcorner Special Thanks –The British Fashion Council, Caroline Rush, Adelaide House, San Patrignano, Giorgia Chiarion, @lcflondon_ , Making for Change, Wool and the Gang, @tihmodels, The Liverpool Echo, The Lobby London, Frances Corner, Stacey James, Clare Farrel, @orsoladecastro, Eric Williams, Karen Kewley, Harry Glaisher, @adwoaaboah, Alfie Kungu, Amadou, Alex Morton, @cedric250Mizero, Emman Debattista, @helene.selam.prosperitee, @jamesmassiah, Jeffrey Obed, Kris Mcallister, Mopesola, @saffiyah__khan, @sonny_hall, @williamsoames @[email protected]✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨✨

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Bethany Williams—Bethany Williams reflects the increasing attention towards sustainability in fashion. Just last week, the British designer won the Queen Elizabeth II award for her eponymous label, whose mission is to address social and environmental concerns.

 

 

Bode—Emily Adams Bode has single-handedly made the American quilt cool again. Using decades-old linens, towels, and patchwork quilts, her label, Bode, somehow both looks like history and feels like the future. The Parsons graduate was also the first woman to show at New York Fashion Week: Men’s.

 

 

Boramy ViguierViguier’s namesake label showed its first collection during the Fall 2018 season with a sporty, almost surreal, take on outerwear. A standout? The fact that he created ominous bulletproof vests from couture fabrics.

 

 

Duran Lantink—Duran Lantink’s news-making moment happened when the Dutch designer created Janelle Monae’s famous pink vagina pants for her “PYNK” video. It was indicative of his fun maximalist designs, like puffer-coat trousers and multicolored fur coats.

 

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EFTYCHIA SS19 #thesuddenlyvisiblesex

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Eftychia—Eftychia Karamolegkou, a Central Saint Martins graduate, makes suits that deconstruct a certain sort of Nicolas Cage masculinity, she once told Another magazine. Working with tailoring techniques that use a lot of folding and creasing, Karamolegkou creates relaxed, menswear-inspired basics for the independent woman.

 

 

Germanier—Swiss-born Central Saint Martins London graduate Kévin Germanier is a designer taking the idea of sustainability and making it, well, not look like sustainable clothing—at least, not in the traditional sense. Using sparkly beads that were previously thrown away, Germanier creates sheer bodysuits and other pieces with a disco spirit.

 

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AW 19 SHOW #pfw #aw19 #hedmayner

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Hed Mayner—Israeli designer Hed Mayner’s most recent collection was made with the idea of “creat[ing] clothing that looks like it already has a body inside,” he told WWD. Using a muted palette of pale pinks, camel, and white, the offering consisted of highly wearable men’s pieces.

 

 

Hu—Caroline Hu’s dresses are fairytale romance, pure and simple. A breakout star of this season’s New York Fashion Week, Hu’s dresses are sweet, but with a sense of rebellion (see: asymmetrical hems and jagged tulle). After all, to be romantic in the era of streetwear and athleisure requires some defiance.

 

 

Kanghyuk—South Korean label Kanghyuk uses utilitarian concepts ranging from militaristic design to car airbags. In an interview with SHOWstudio, design Kanghyuk Choi said, “I’m personally drawn to mass produced artificial/manmade materials. Somehow I don’t feel the same bond with natural materials. The materials I’m drawn to stand for people’s mass produced taste in real life.”

 

 

Kiko Kostadinov—Kostadinov is a Bulgarian fashion designer based in London who runs his eponymous label, as well as British heritage brand Mackintosh’s brand Mackintosh 0001. Bringing old-school glamour to modern-day streetwear, his most recent collection was inspired by costume designer Irene Lentz, particularly the costumes she created for the Doris Day film Midnight Lace.

 

 

Kenneth IzeBorn in Lagos, Kenneth Izedonmwen is a trailblazer of the Nigerian fashion industry, having launched his brand in his home city in 2013 after studying design at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna. Using locally sourced materials and ensuring a safe workspace for his employees, he’s creating a label very much steeped in a cross-cultural experience.

 

 

LecavalierHailing from the suburbs of Montreal, Marie-Eve Lecavalier won the prestigious Chloé Prize last April for her “Come Get Trippy With Us” collection, influenced by her childhood memories of listening to Frank Zappa with her father.

 

 

Paria/FarzanehParia Farzaneh is one of London’s top emerging talents, becoming known for blending elements of her heritage with Western references (she’s the daughter of parents who immigrated from Iran to England). Fun fact: Frank Ocean wore one of her T-shirts onstage at London’s Lovebox Festival.

 

 

Phipps—Spencer Phipps, a former men’s designer at Dries Van Noten, launched an eco-conscious label influenced by his Bay Area upbringing. Using sustainable manufacturing and materials, his first collection’s press release said that “as a modern fashion company, we are simply trying to do the right thing.”

 

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RICHARD MALONE Autumn Winter 2019 – Massive thank you to the incredible team who made this happen, and all of the fantastic women who have walked in the show and fitted with us for weeks, it is an absolute pleasure to work with you – Styling @nellkalonji Casting @_hollycullen Set @amystickland_setdesign Music @godcolony PR @starworksgroup @sophiejewes Make-Up @pablo_rodriguez_makeup using @illamasqua Hair @richardphillipart using @babylissprouk Shoes @byfar_official Jewellery @galacolivetdennison Nails @roxannecampbell Knitwear in collaboration with @nessa_ellen_ – @britishfashioncouncil @sarahmower_ @97crush and the entire #newgen panel for your support and constant encouragement of #sustainable and #ethical practices in the fashion industry, incredibly grateful to my wonderful family and close friends for always being there, and of course Tom, for everything – #richardmalone #aw19 #lfw #womenswear

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Richard MaloneThe Irish designer’s most recent collection seemed to focus, as Vogue’s Sarah Mower wrote, on Brexit anxiety. Based in London, Malone has to apply for “settled status,” a difficult process involving travel and lots of income tax reports. A fashion activist, he often uses eco-friendly fabrics with maximalist qualities, like silk and recycled nylon.

 

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Stefan CookeGraduates of the 2017 Central Saint Martins M.A. program, Stefan Cooke and Jake Burt first presented their body-conscious silhouettes on the Fashion East runway. They were an instant hit.

 

 

Susan Fang—Susan Fang established her label in 2017 after working with Stella McCartney and Celine. Her designs bring practicality and ease of movement to rich textures and fanciful clear, plastic bubble veils.

 

 

Thebe MaguguHailing from South Africa, Magugu, at just 25 years old, already has one of his creations in Fashion Institute of Technology. In an interview with CNN, he said, “I think people tend to have set ideas about African design. But we are so much more experimental in our proportions and cuts than people realize, and I want my work to reflect that.”

 

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