Describing a collection as Blade Runner-esque could almost feel a little overplayed at this point — it’s an easy go-to for a collection that’s not just futuristic (and perhaps also a little retro) but a look that questions, a look that feels a little eerie yet also optimistic. That was exactly Prada’s FW18 show inside the Rem Koolhaas tower of Fondazione Prada.
The show’s attendees were seated in front of a wall of windows, with scenery of train tracks and blinking neon signs with Prada symbols. Miuccia Prada seemed to be examining a future woman — a woman composed of dualities that we all contain and expresses them in both neons and earth colors. The real standouts were the neon pieces that married, as Miuccia Prada is so skilled at doing, theatrical design with commercial practicality. It was especially exciting to see the return of the flame heel from Spring 2012.
Prada might be bringing back their classic black nylon bags, but we’ve seen the future and it’s BRIGHT. The future also contains what appear to be anorak coat booties for your feet. A spooky remix of Blondie’s “Heart of Glass” set the mood, and the colors and materials bounced from highlighter-pink tulle to a lime green, plastic dress, and rubber boots paired with cocktail frocks.
At her show, Prada spoke about the duality of “what you have to be to be strong and active and protect yourself, what women inherited — the sweetness, the bows, the femininity.” Prada might be experiencing declining revenue these past six months, but design-wise things feel fresh and invigorated. Between this show and the return of Prada Sport, one of the OG high-end sportswear lines that was “big on the terraces with the football lads,” alongside a fixture of “drum & bass and garage scenes,” Prada is poised to take over in 2018.