Ever since Craig Green’s sensitive man-of-glass show, I’ve been looking at menswear through a different lens—more, specifically, a lens that makes me, a femme female, want to wear it. From Valentino to SSS World Corp, menswear at Paris Fashion Week has felt thoughtfully maximalist—see Offset in a lilac puffer to the wild screen-saver prints of SSS World Corp.
Lilac, the perfect color for all the Little Fresh Meat boys out there, was seen both at Acne and at Off-White. Acne’s Jonny Johansson designed a cable-knit sweater with open-at-the-hip trousers and another white jacket with lilac trim. At Off-White, Offset wore a lilac puffer coat with a built-in crossbody bag that I AM ALL ABOUT. It’s streetwear efficiency, yes, but the soft color makes it something special.
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Off-White’s social-media standouts were, by far, Offset in the lilac puffer invention and the two girls in floral catsuits wearing football helmets. The sleeper hit, IMO, was the baggy jeans paired with suit coats. It was the sort of slacker outfit that looks like it would have been worn by Brad Pitt in 1999.
Designers are still in love with construction orange, and I’m very here for it. Walter Van Beirendonck’s circus spectacular gave us Pennywise vibes and color dripping everywhere, and there was lots of orange to be found in the double-breasted peacoats and asymmetrical shirt-jackets. Acne also made use of construction orange with a few shirts and furry cow patterns, as well as with more neon-hued Latex-like pants.
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Windows 97 Screen-Saver Prints
Everyone from Valentino to SSS World Corp embraced what I like to refer to as Windows 97 screen-saver prints, with the sort of Hot-Cheetah red swirls and neon greens that bring to mind the family desktop computer in your parents’ basement. From SSS World Corp’s slime-green dollar signs to this Valentino trench with what looks like a pixelated red-lava spill chasing the bottom, the hacker vibes are strong.