Riccardo Tisci, Burberry’s new artistic director, showed a truly stellar debut collection on Monday night. It was urbane, refreshing and neutral, with Burberry beige being the central color.
For women, swingy pleat skirts, trench coats with gold chain-link accents, silk scarves, and pencil skirts were the standout pieces. “He’s fascinated by British extremes of conservatism and anarchy, freedom and repression, but smart enough to move beyond the clichés and to recognise that today’s consumers are consistent only in their inconsistency,” the Telegraph’s Lisa Armstrong wrote.
Tisci, who comes from Givenchy, showed his style while maintaining the Britishness of Burberry. The metal accents on the anoraks and the zipped mini skirts updated the brand’s vibe. After 17 years of Christopher Bailey’s nostalgic, classic creations, Tisci was tasked with giving Burberry a facelift while maintaining the heritage of the brand. With this collection, he managed to do both.
The designer described the collection as “a celebration of the cultures, the traditions and the codes of this historic fashion house and of the eclecticism that makes up the beautifully diverse United Kingdom”.